If you’re constantly battling breakouts and struggling to stay on top of your skin, you’ll know how mentally draining it can be pursuing clear skin. Your face can often feel uncomfortable, sore and inflamed, and let’s not even get started on trying to apply makeup to skin that won’t play ball.
Sometimes constant acne can lead to desperate measures. If you’ve tried everything from switching up your skincare products and keeping a food diary to DIY face masks and more, but nothing seems to be working, we’ve got just the thing.
Firstly, it’s important to keep in mind that adult acne is very common. It affects 95% of 11-30 year-olds according to the NHS, and common triggers include stress, alcohol, diet, but also factors outside of your control such as hormones.
Managing spots doesn’t always require professional medical help, but in some cases it does, so if you’ve ever wondered if you’re missing a trick or if it's worth saving up for an appointment, expert dermatologists have helpfully answered all our burning questions.
We’ve got you covered on everything from lifestyle factors impacting your skin health to the products we rate for calming and clearing skin. These tips will help if you’re at your wits end with pesky blackheads, whiteheads and painful cysts.
13 best pimple patches to clear spots overnightGallery13 Photos1. Pare back your skincare routine
Constant breakouts and social media feeds full of people with seemingly perfect skin (remember, filters aren’t always obvious) can manifest into feeling desperate about managing your skin. This can result in an overcomplicated skincare routine.
Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist at OneWelbeck Skin Health and Allergy, says that one of the most common mistakes people make is “not understanding the type of acne they have. This can result in people using the wrong ingredients or applying too many products to compensate.” She stresses that a simple and repetitive approach is key.
“The best skincare regime is a consistent one that addresses specific skin concerns,” seconds Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder and medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic. “To see the biggest benefit, it is best to maintain skin treatments and skincare for a minimum of a skin cycle (at least 6-8 weeks).” So, try to be patient with a pared-back routine that doesn't involve using too many harsh products at once.
2. Double cleanse before bed
Tip number two: never go to sleep with your makeup on. No matter what time it is, or how many drinks you’ve had, always wash your face before bed. Then, do it again. “Ensuring that your skin is thoroughly cleansed should be your top priority,” says Niamh Ryan, skin expert and co-founder of Ella & Jo Cosmetics. “Your entire skincare routine rests on this one step.”
“Your first cleanse will remove surface makeup, product build-up and daily grime, while your second cleanse will clean the skin itself,” continues Ryan. On the days that you wear makeup, use an oil-based cleanser first. And on the other days, try a cleansing milk. “For your second cleanse, I would recommend a formula containing salicylic acid as this is great for oily and blemish-prone skin.”
Try these salicylic acid products:The Inkey List Salicylic Acid CleanserLa Roche-Posay Effaclar Clarifying LotionMedik8 Press and ClearPaula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant3. Exfoliate often
“Exfoliation will help shed dead skin cells, unclogging pores, allowing your skincare products to penetrate better, and leaving your skin looking healthier and more radiant,” assures Dr Sophie Shotter, aesthetic doctor and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic. To help clear skin, go for chemical exfoliants over physical exfoliants.
“I would usually introduce AHAs and BHAs two-to-three times per week,” says Shotter. Salicylic acid (a BHA) works wonders on oily skin types, “as it penetrates really well.” If you have rosacea or sensitive skin, “stick to PHAs like gluconolactone as they moisturise while gently exfoliating.”
Try these PHA products:The Inkey List PHA Toner 100mlMedik8 Press & Glow 200mlZelens PHA+ Resurfacing Facial PadsLixirskin Night Switch BHA/AHA4. But not too often
When it comes to exfoliation, there is indeed a sweet spot. Overdo it and the skin’s barrier function can become compromised. “Exfoliants shouldn’t burn or irritate the skin,” says Shotter. If they do, chances are you’re hitting the scrubs, toners and peels a little too hard. Redness, dryness, burning, peeling and pimples are all signs of over-exfoliated skin.
To avoid this, introduce chemical exfoliants (aka skincare acids) two-to-three times a week and for physical exfoliants, “only use them twice a week.” Top tip? “Please never use ground up nutshell exfoliators – the ragged edges can cause micro scarring of the skin,” warns Shotter.
Try these face exfoliators:Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment 60mlDr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Extra Strength FormulaDermalogica Daily SuperfoliantPixi Glow Tonic 100ml5. Strengthen your skin barrier
A good skin barrier is the secret to clear skin. “The outermost layer is important because it serves as the first line of defence against environmental aggressors such as pollution, germs and irritants, while also preventing moisture loss from the skin,” explains Dr Alexis Granite, CeraVe consultant dermatologist.
Skin with a disrupted barrier may be dehydrated and flaky as well as red and irritated, “it may also be more prone to breakouts and dermatitis,” she continues. To maintain a healthy skin barrier, Granite recommends hydrating products that contain ceramides, glycerine and hyaluronic acid. “A few favourites include CeraVe Hydrating Cream to Foam Cleanser, £14, CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £21, and SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier Serum, £105.”
Try these hydrating products:CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser with Amino Acids for Normal to Dry SkinCeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum 30mlSkinCeuticals H.A. (Hyaluronic Acid) Intensifier Serum 30mlByoma Hydrating Serum 30ml6. Clean your screen
Noticed an uptick in breakouts on or around your cheeks? It could be linked to your mobile phone. “Dirt, makeup and oil can all accumulate on our screens,” says Iris Maglanoc, aesthetic therapist at Dr David Jack clinic. And every time we pick up that screen and hold it to our face, we reintroduce those germs onto our skin, which can lead to congested pores.
“Breakouts that are caused by our mobile phones typically appear on the cheeks,” confirms Iris. To prevent phone-caused breakouts, regularly clean your screen with an antibacterial wipe to get rid of germs.
7. Wash your makeup brushes
Another breeding ground for bacteria? Makeup brushes. Dust, dirt, oil, residual makeup and dead skin cells can all accumulate on makeup brushes – which is why it’s so important to clean your best makeup brushes and sponges on the regular. Not only will it save your skin from a bout of breakouts, but it will also help to keep your tools in tip top shape. “I wipe mine down daily with a makeup wipe, and then clean them with shampoo once per week,” says Shotter.
These these brush cleaners:MAC Brush CleanserStylpro Makeup Brush CleanserTom Ford Brush CleanserBeautyblender Blendercleanser Solid8. Avoid picking or popping pimples
While it’s very tempting, the experts all advise against popping or squeezing spots. Why? “Picking at spots can worsen inflammation, increase the risk of scarring and introduce bacteria into the skin,” says Ejikeme. Instead, apply a spot remedy containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. “These ingredients can help unclog pores, reduce spot-causing bacteria, and promote skin cell turnover,” adds Ejikeme.
Try these pimple patches:Zitsticka Goo GetterDots for Spots Acne PatchesPathology Breakout Box 3-in-1 Acne Treatment KitBeauty Pie Emergency Pimple Patches9. Wash your face after exercise
If you’re a regular gym-goer, remember to always clean your skin after exercise. “Even if you’ve done your morning skincare routine before going to the gym, you’ll still want to wash again after exercise to remove sweat,” says Shotter, who adds that “stale sweat gives bacteria a perfect chance to flourish." She carries a bottle of Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier, £14.95 in her gym bag to cleanse with after exercise – "it helps to rebalance the microbiome.”
Try these cleansers:Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse Resurfacing AHA/BHA Mangosteen Cleansing GelThe Ordinary Squalane CleanserCetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser WashByoma Creamy Jelly Cleanser10. Avoid touching your face
“Dirt, grime, bacteria and oil from your hands can end up on your skin if you touch your face constantly,” warns Granite. So, try and keep hands off when you’re not cleansing or applying product to keep skin clear.
11. Wear sunscreen every day
If your daily skincare regime ends with a generous application of your best face sun screen, here’s a virtual pat on the back. “Sun protection is vital to maintaining skin health and preventing signs of skin ageing such as pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles,” points out Granite. And with so many sunscreen formulations now available, it is easier than ever to find a product that is well suited to your skin. Follow Ejikeme's advice and “apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, even on cloudy days.”
Try these sunscreens:La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVmune 400 Oil Control Fluid SPF50+The Inkey List Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30Ultrasun Face Tinted High SPF30Chanel UV Essentiel SPF5012. Introduce vitamin C
A skin brightening hero, Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of MZ Skin, recommends introducing a vitamin C skincare product into your routine. “This is a well-researched and clinically proven powerhouse antioxidant with exceptional results in overall skin health,” says Zamani. Not only can it help reduce oxidative damage and stimulate collagen synthesis, but it can also “help create clearer skin tone by reducing pigmentation.”
Try these vitamin C serums:Garnier 3.5% Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, Brightening & Anti Dark Spot SerumMurad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening SerumDr. Dennis Gross Vitamin C + Lactic 15% Vitamin C Firm & Bright SerumNaturium Vitamin C Complex Serum13. Change your bed linen regularly
“Pillowcases get dirty and if you’re not changing your bed linen regularly then this could be contributing towards a bout of breakouts,” says Shotter. Once per week is ideal. Consider using silk pillow cases as they're a little more gentle on the skin. Since cotton has a high absorption rate and a rougher surface (even when the thread count is high), they can also reduce the efficacy of your skincare products.
Try these silk pillow cases:Slip Queen Silk Pillowcase100% Mulberry 22-Momme Queen Silk PillowcaseAmazon Brand – Umi Satin Silk Pillowcase 2 Pack SetAudley Super King Silk Oxford Pillowcase14. Limit refined sugars
“The link between diet and acne is still debated but there is some evidence that high glycemic foods, foods that make your blood sugar spike quickly, can result in inflammation and increased oil production, potentially worsening breakouts,” explains Granite.
15. Get professional advice
“Spots, pimples, blackheads and whiteheads can be related to several skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, perioral dermatitis (POD), bacterial folliculitis, yeast (or fungal) folliculitis or a form of chronic sun damage called Favre-Racouchot syndrome to name a few,” says Dr Stefanie Williams, founder of Eudelo skin clinic in London. Of these skin conditions, “acne and rosacea are the most common culprits of facial breakouts in adult women.”
To identify the cause and the best course of treatment, it's a good idea to consult a dermatologist. “My general rule of thumb is, if you have tried over the counter treatments for more than 10 weeks and there hasn’t been any difference then you are likely to need a medical treatment to sort the problem. If there is already evidence of scarring from the acne then you need to seek advice straight away and don’t bother trying any over the counter treatments - as you need medical professional help quick smart," says Williams.
What is rosacea? A dermatologist's guide to symptoms and treatmentsGallery7 Photos16. Don't ignore lifestyle factors
We have already mentioned refined sugar, but there are many other influences that can potentially aggravate our skin. “Once you have your diagnosis, treatment and skincare sorted, it’s time to take a look at the other lifestyle factors that play a role in your skin health. Your diet, environment and emotional wellbeing all play out on our skin. You need to discuss how to adapt these factors to give your skin the best chance of being clear,” says Dr Stefanie Williams, Founder of Eudelo skin clinic in London.
“Drinking plenty of fluids, exercising regularly to increase blood flow, eating a well-balanced diet rich in healthy oils such as omega-3s and vitamins and minerals can all play an important role and help you to avoid dehydration and skin dryness, dermatitis and acne and rosacea flare ups,” says Granite.
17. Get plenty of sleep
Getting enough sleep is key for healthy skin. “Poor sleep habits negatively affect our skin’s ability to function and renew,” says Faye Purcell, product development chemist at Q+A. “At night, our skin repairs, rehydrates and strengthens its immunity to help us fight any source of infection that could result in breakouts – so try and have a few earlier nights.”
18. Consider prescriptive treatments
If the stuff on the supermarket shelves isn't helping, head to your GP. “Treatment options include many prescription creams as well as oral treatment with tablets, where needed. Most breakouts can be controlled well with just topical treatment, so you’ll likely be prescribed creams or gels for home use with no need to take tablets,” says Williams.
But don't be afraid to ask for a combination of treatments to find the right fit. “Often GPs and other doctors are prescribing a single cream with disappointing results. We know from our extensive experience treating breakouts that most cases respond much better to a clever combination of different prescription creams,” adds Williams.
19. Try in-clinic treatments
"Dermatology grade facials are not the only in-clinic treatment which can benefit breakout-prone skin and conditions such as acne and rosacea. There’s a whole raft of possibilities depending on your needs, including: LED light treatment, chemical peels, plasma energy peels and certain types of lasers," explains Williams. “These should be discussed with your dermatologist or dermatologist-trained therapist.”
Ejikeme recommends chemical peels or hydrafacials every four to eight weeks to improve skin texture and help clear skin. “Hydrafacial is a non-invasive treatment that uses a combination of exfoliation, extraction, and hydration to improve skin appearance,” she says. “But remember, the first line of treatment for breakouts should always be prescription creams together with skincare optimisation in my professional opinion,” notes Williams.
Try these at-home LED Lights treatments:CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy MaskDr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare ProCellreturn Premium LED MaskSENSSE Pro LED Light Therapy Face Mask20. Re-assess your skincare routine
“Developing a skincare regime for somebody suffering with breakouts requires an intricate knowledge of both skincare ingredients, base formulations and possible interactions with prescription treatments. This is not easy, that’s why it’s so important to refer to a dermatologist or dermatologist-trained therapist who has years of experience in optimising skincare for breakout patients,” says Williams.
In terms of ingredients that should be on your radar, Craythorne says that salicylic acid, sulphur and niacinamide should all be top of your list. “For your AM cleanser, use one ideally with salicylic acid in it, followed by a moisturiser that’s simple and nourishing, finish with an SPF50+”. In the evening, she suggests a cream or foam cleanser and a retinoid before your moisturiser.
21. Introduce retinol
If you haven’t already, consider adding a retinol into your PM skincare regime. “Retinol is a superb addition for any skin wanting to address signs of ageing as well as those with oily/breakout prone skin,” says Shotter. It helps unblock pores and speeds up cell turnover for a smoother, more radiant complexion.
“Just be careful not to combine too many actives in the same routine - for example alternate your acids and your retinols on different nights or use a gentler PHA based acid formula in the mornings instead,” suggests Shotter.
Try these retinol products:CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol SerumOlay Retinol 24 Night Eye Cream With Retinol & Vitamin B3Naturium Retinol Complex SerumMurad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum22. Look for a serum that contains niacinamide
Niacinamide is a multi-tasking ingredient that deserves a place in your skincare regime – especially if you’re prone to breakouts. “Also known as vitamin B3, this multi-talented, superstar ingredient helps prevent damage caused by UV rays, improves the skin barrier, calms redness and reduces inflammation,” says Purcell. It can also minimise the appearance of pores and, thanks to its ability to regulate oil production, can help prevent breakouts. Tick, tick, tick!
Try these niacinamide products:Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide SerumThe Ordinary Niacinamide 10% & Zinc 1%Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide BoosterGlow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops23. Be gentle
“Overdoing it with too many actives or over cleansing or exfoliating can strip your skin and disrupt the barrier, causing sensitivity and breakouts,” warns Granite. “Choose a few targeted products rather than overloading your skin with a 10-step routine.”
24. Remember, it's not all bad
It’s easy to feel down and drained about constantly fighting breakouts, especially when we know stress can be a trigger - leading to more spots, which turns into a vicious cycle.
“Don’t think you have to handle this alone. There are people who are trained to help to get this better and there are very well recognised treatments that work very effectively to treat acne,” says Craythorne. She also explains the importance of keeping in mind that acne is incredibly common, “most people will have gone through this to some degree so should understand how you feel.”
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